I’ve had a few folks ask for a complete walk-through of the tintype process. It’s a little involved, so instead of replying to comments one at a time, I figured I’d put everything in one place. Maybe you saw my Instagram reel and wanted to know about using vintage metal for plates. This post here describes the process after your plate is prepared. If you want to learn how to create a plate ahead of this process, check out my post on preparing reclaimed metal for wet plate.
If you’ve never done this before, here’s a straightforward breakdown of:
- What gear you need
- What chemicals are involved
- And how the process actually works
The tintype process, also known as the wet plate collodion process, is a 19th-century photographic technique that creates a one-of-a-kind image on metal.
If you’re curious what a tintype actually is beyond the process, I break that down here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/what-is-a-tintype/
What Do You Need to Make a Tintype?
I like to think of this in three parts:
- Camera stuff
- Chemical stuff
- Everything else
Safety Equipment
This is important so I’m putting this at the beginning and end.
- Eye protection
- Nitrile gloves unless you want stained hands
Camera Equipment (The Basics)
Camera
Most people use a large format camera, typically 4×5, 5×7, or 8×10.
That said, you don’t have to go fancy. I’ve used old Kodak Brownie box cameras that cost $10 to $20. The plates are a little smaller, but it’s an inexpensive way to get started.
Lens
Your lens choice comes down to preference and budget.
- Brass Petzval lenses give you that classic, swirly, vintage look
- Modern lenses are sharper, easier to find, and often more affordable
I personally use modern lenses and shutters because they were easier to get and fit my budget.
Also worth noting, you don’t need a shutter. Exposure times are usually several seconds, so:
- Lens cap off starts the exposure
- Lens cap back on ends it
That’s your shutter.
Plate Holder
If you’re using a large format camera, you’ll need a wet plate holder.
Options include:
- Buying new from places like Zebra Dry Plate or Chamonix
- Converting film holders
- 3D printing your own (I use Robert Bieber’s design)
Tripod
Collodion has an ISO somewhere around 0.5 to 3.
That means exposures can run from a few seconds to several minutes.
Add in the weight of a large format camera, and a solid tripod is almost required.
Dark Cloth
Not required, but extremely helpful for seeing your ground glass when focusing, especially outdoors.
You can buy one or just use an old sweatshirt.
Focusing Loupe
Also optional, but helpful if you want to dial in precise focus.
Chemical Setup (Where the Magic Happens)
Collodion
One of the core chemicals.
You can buy it pre-mixed and ready to use from places like UV Photographics or Artcraft.
Silver Nitrate
After coating your plate in collodion, it goes into a silver nitrate bath to become light-sensitive.
This is what actually makes the plate work.
Developer
There are a few variations, but a common one is a ferrous sulfate based developer.
Fixer
This makes the image permanent.
Many use sodium thiosulfate.
Varnish
Used to protect the finished plate.
Common options include sandarac or shellac.
Water
You’ll use more water than you expect for rinsing and washing plates.
Everything Else You’ll Need
Darkroom or Darkbox
Part of the process has to be done in the dark.
This could be:
- A dedicated darkroom
- A portable dark box for field work
A red safelight works fine.
Plates
- Black aluminum plates for tintypes
- Glass plates for ambrotypes
A lot of people start with aluminum trophy plates. Main Trophy Supply is one of my picks. They understand the tintype process and can help with some plate questions.
Silver Bath Tank
- Holds your silver nitrate
- Needs to be light-tight
You can buy one or build your own.
Trays
Used for developing, fixing, and washing.
Standard photography trays work great, but anything that holds liquid will work.
Cleaning Supplies
Paper towels, rags, or lint-free wipes.
Clean plates make a big difference.
Safety Gear
Again, not glamorous, but important. Just do it, there’s no excuse to not stay safe.
- Nitrile/Latex/Whatever gloves.
- Eye protection
The Tintype Process (Step-by-Step)
Let’s assume your camera is already set up and focused.
1. Prep the Plate
Make sure the plate is clean and dust-free.
2. Pour Collodion
Pour collodion onto the plate and let the excess run off evenly.
Wait about 15 to 20 seconds for it to set slightly.
3. Sensitize the Plate
Place the plate into the silver nitrate bath for about 3 to 5 minutes.
From here on out, you’re working in low light.
4. Load the Plate
- Remove plate from silver bath
- Wipe the back
- Place into plate holder
5. Make the Exposure
- Insert holder into camera
- Pull dark slide
- Make the exposure
- Close the dark slide
Exposure time can range from a few seconds to several minutes depending on the light.
6. Develop
Back in the dark:
- Remove plate from holder
- Pour developer across the plate
- Watch the image appear
- Rinse with water
7. Fix the Image
Now you can bring it into normal light.
- Place plate in fixer
- Watch the image clear and stabilize
8. Wash the Plate
Rinse thoroughly for several minutes to remove leftover chemicals.
9. Varnish (Optional but Recommended)
- Warm the plate
- Pour varnish
- Drain excess
- Warm again to set
10. Let It Cure
Even after drying, the varnish takes time to fully cure.
That’s It
That’s the tintype process.
It’s messy, a little unpredictable, and takes some practice, but when it works, it feels like magic.
If you want to see how this process translates into finished work, you can view examples here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/tintype-photography-in-central-ohio/
Tintype Photography in Central Ohio
Tintype photography is still a hands-on, physical process, and I offer sessions here in Central Ohio, including Columbus and surrounding areas.
Whether you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind portrait or just want to experience the process yourself, this is something completely different from modern digital photography.