I’ve had a few folks ask for a complete walk-through of the tintype process. It’s a little involved, so instead of replying to comments one at a time, I figured I’d put everything in one place.
If you’ve never done this before, here’s a straightforward breakdown of:
- What gear you need
- What chemicals are involved
- And how the process actually works
The tintype process, also known as the wet plate collodion process, is a 19th-century photographic technique that creates a one-of-a-kind image on metal.
If you’re curious what a tintype actually is beyond the process, I break that down here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/what-is-a-tintype/
What Do You Need to Make a Tintype?
I like to think of this in three parts:
- Camera stuff
- Chemical stuff
- Everything else
Camera Equipment (The Basics)
Camera
Most people use a large format camera, typically 4×5, 5×7, or 8×10.
That said, you don’t have to go fancy. I’ve seen people get perfectly usable results out of old Kodak Brownie box cameras for $10 to $20.
Honestly, those can simplify things a bit since you can load a sensitized plate directly instead of messing with holders.
Lens
Your lens choice comes down to preference and budget.
- Brass Petzval lenses give you that classic, swirly, vintage look
- Modern lenses are sharper, easier to find, and often more affordable
I personally use modern lenses and shutters because they were easier to get and fit my budget.
Also worth noting, you don’t need a shutter. Exposure times are usually several seconds, so:
- Lens cap off starts the exposure
- Lens cap back on ends it
That’s your shutter.
Plate Holder
If you’re using a large format camera, you’ll need a wet plate holder.
Options include:
- Buying new from places like Zebra Dry Plate or Chamonix
- Converting film holders
- 3D printing your own (I use Bieber’s design)
Tripod
Collodion has an ISO somewhere around 0.5 to 3.
That means exposures can run from a few seconds to several minutes.
Add in the weight of a large format camera, and a solid tripod is almost required.
Dark Cloth
Not required, but extremely helpful for seeing your ground glass when focusing, especially outdoors.
You can buy one or just use an old sweatshirt.
Focusing Loupe
Also optional, but helpful if you want to dial in precise focus.
Chemical Setup (Where the Magic Happens)
Collodion
One of the core chemicals.
You can buy it pre-mixed and ready to use from places like UV Photographics or Artcraft.
Silver Nitrate
After coating your plate in collodion, it goes into a silver nitrate bath to become light-sensitive.
This is what actually makes the plate work.
Developer
There are a few variations, but a common one is a ferrous sulfate based developer.
Fixer
This makes the image permanent.
Most beginners use sodium thiosulfate.
Varnish
Used to protect the finished plate.
Common options include sandarac or shellac.
Water
You’ll use more water than you expect for rinsing and washing plates.
Everything Else You’ll Need
Darkroom or Darkbox
Part of the process has to be done in low light.
This could be:
- A dedicated darkroom
- A portable dark box for field work
A red safelight works fine.
Plates
- Black aluminum plates for tintypes
- Glass plates for ambrotypes
A lot of people start with aluminum trophy plates.
Silver Bath Tank
- Holds your silver nitrate
- Needs to be light-tight
You can buy one or build your own.
Trays
Used for developing, fixing, and washing.
Standard photography trays work great, but anything that holds liquid will work.
Cleaning Supplies
Paper towels, rags, or lint-free wipes.
Clean plates make a big difference.
Safety Gear
Not glamorous, but important:
- Gloves unless you want stained hands
- Eye protection
The Tintype Process (Step-by-Step)
Let’s assume your camera is already set up and focused.
1. Prep the Plate
Make sure the plate is clean and dust-free.
2. Pour Collodion
Pour collodion onto the plate and let the excess run off evenly.
Wait about 15 to 20 seconds for it to set slightly.
3. Sensitize the Plate
Place the plate into the silver nitrate bath for about 3 to 5 minutes.
From here on out, you’re working in low light.
4. Load the Plate
- Remove plate from silver bath
- Wipe the back
- Place into plate holder
5. Make the Exposure
- Insert holder into camera
- Pull dark slide
- Make the exposure
- Close the dark slide
Exposure time can range from a few seconds to several minutes depending on the light.
6. Develop
Back in the dark:
- Remove plate from holder
- Pour developer across the plate
- Watch the image appear
- Rinse with water
7. Fix the Image
Now you can bring it into normal light.
- Place plate in fixer
- Watch the image clear and stabilize
8. Wash the Plate
Rinse thoroughly for several minutes to remove leftover chemicals.
9. Varnish (Optional but Recommended)
- Warm the plate
- Pour varnish
- Drain excess
- Warm again to set
10. Let It Cure
Even after drying, the varnish takes time to fully cure.
That’s It
That’s the tintype process.
It’s messy, a little unpredictable, and takes some practice, but when it works, it feels like magic.
If you want to see how this process translates into finished work, you can view examples here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/tintype-photography-in-central-ohio/
Tintype Photography in Central Ohio
Tintype photography is still a hands-on, physical process, and I offer sessions here in Central Ohio, including Columbus and surrounding areas.
Whether you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind portrait or just want to experience the process yourself, this is something completely different from modern digital photography.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tintypes
How long does the tintype process take?
A single tintype plate usually takes about 10 to 20 minutes.
Why do tintype photos take so long?
Tintypes use wet plate collodion with a very low ISO, typically around 0.5 to 3.
Are tintypes actually made on tin?
No. Most modern tintypes are made on blackened aluminum.
How long do tintypes last?
Properly varnished tintypes can last over 100 years.
Can I book a tintype session in Ohio?
Yes. Learn more here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/tintype-photography-in-central-ohio/
💰 FINAL POST #2 (HIGH-CONVERTING)
How Much Does Tintype Photography Cost? A Real Breakdown (From Beginner to Professional Setups)
One of the most common questions I get is simple:
How much does it actually cost to get into tintype photography?
The answer is… it depends.
You can get started for surprisingly cheap, or you can go all-in and spend several thousand dollars. Most people land somewhere in the middle.
Here’s a realistic breakdown of what different levels look like.
Beginner Tintype Setup ($150 to $500)
This is the “just get started” setup.
Typical gear:
- Box camera or cheap large format camera: $20 to $150
- Basic lens or fixed lens camera: $0 to $100
- DIY or modified plate holder: $0 to $50
- Starter chemistry kit: $75 to $150
- Trays, containers, basic supplies: $25 to $75
What to expect:
- It will work
- It will be inconsistent
- You will learn a lot
This is perfect if you’re experimenting or just want to understand the process.
Intermediate Setup ($500 to $1,500)
This is where things start to feel more controlled and repeatable.
Typical gear:
- 4×5 large format camera: $200 to $600
- Modern lens: $150 to $400
- Proper wet plate holder: $100 to $300
- Tripod: $75 to $200
- Chemistry and supplies: $150 to $300
What to expect:
- Much more consistent results
- Easier workflow
- Better image quality
This is where most serious hobbyists land.
Professional Setup ($1,500 to $4,000)
This is where you can confidently start charging clients.
Typical gear:
- High-quality 4×5 or 5×7 camera: $600 to $1,500
- Quality lens or vintage brass lens: $300 to $1,000
- Multiple plate holders: $200 to $500
- Solid tripod: $150 to $400
- Full chemistry setup: $300 to $800
- Portable darkbox: $200 to $600
What to expect:
- Reliable results
- Professional workflow
- Ability to shoot on location
High-End or “Luxury” Setup ($4,000+)
This is where things get fun.
Typical gear:
- 8×10 camera: $1,500 to $4,000+
- Brass Petzval lens: $1,000 to $3,000
- Custom darkbox setup: $500 to $2,000
- Studio lighting setup: $500+
- Premium materials and plates
What to expect:
- Stunning, large-format images
- Strong visual impact
- Higher-end client work
What About the Cost of a Tintype Session?
If you’re not looking to shoot your own, but instead want a tintype made:
Most sessions typically range from:
- $75 to $150 for smaller plates
- $150 to $300+ for larger or premium work
Pricing depends on:
- Plate size
- Time
- Experience
- Materials
Is Tintype Photography Expensive?
It can be.
But it can also be very accessible if you’re willing to experiment and learn.
The biggest investment is not the gear. It’s the time it takes to get consistent results.
Want to Skip the Learning Curve?
If you’d rather experience the process without building your own setup, I offer tintype photography sessions in Central Ohio, including Columbus and surrounding areas.
You can learn more or book a session here:
https://redrabbitphoto.com/tintype-photography-in-central-ohio/
Final Thought
You can spend $200 or $5,000 and still end up with the same lesson:
Tintype photography rewards patience more than money.